How to Lay Sod
by M Woodson on Sep 25, 2008 with 0 Comments
Sod laying made easy. Following several important techniques in preparing to lay and the laying of sod will give you a lawn that is both virtually instant and long lasting.
- Plan to lay sod during the season when the grass type of the sod actively grows. Fall or spring for cool-season grass and late spring to early summer for warm season grass. In the US, cool-season grass grows best in the northern part of the country but in the southern part of the country warm-season grass grows best. In other countries cool-season grass may grow if the hardiness zone where you live is lower than 5 or 6 and if the hardiness zone is 6 or higher than you may need to plant sod of warm-season grass.
- Make sure the sod you will lay grows from similar soil, on the farm, on which you plan to lay it.
- Choose the day before buying sod to prepare the soil. Make sure it is on a cloudy day and in a shaded spot. This will reduce the amount of weed growth later and slows its drying time. Remove old sod with a sod cutter or shovel. Keep at the closest 3 feet away from around present trees, do not remove or add soil or sod. Weeds should also be removed, roots included. If the weed infestation is dense use a post-emergent herbicide made to kill the particular weeds that are present. If the weeds are mature two applications may be necessary. After four weeks ensure that no new weeds grow in the soil anytime soon by applying a pre-emergent herbicide like corn gluten. Next till the soil, while it is relatively moist, yet not wet, to a depth of between 6 to 12 inches. Smooth out the grading to the proper contour of the plot. Walk slowly over the soil to detect dips and mounds that form in the soil from your body weight. Adjust, or grade, the soil again until it is uniformly level. Add 3 inches of compost onto the soil and till it again to a depth of 6-8 inches. Calculate the square footage of the proposed area for sod and divide it by the square footage of a roll of the sod you will purchase. The following morning buy the sod.
- Buy 10% more sod than you should need. Purchase sod that is uniformly green all over without a sign of browning. The sod should be evenly moist and lying in shade, unless you virtually get it fresh off the truck. The soil of the sod should be moist, not dry. The grass blades should be about 2 inches and the soil should be about a 1/2 an inch.
- Deliver your sod to your site immediately. Away from, and yet nearby the area where the sod will be permanently laid, unroll each piece in shade and water them to keep them from drying out.
- Before laying any sod in its permanent spot spread a starter fertilizer over the soil surface. No need to work it into the soil because it will be sandwiched between the soil of the sod and the soil of the planting bed. Dampen the soil at the spot before each piece is laid. When laying the sod in its permanent place lay each piece next to the previous one. Start placing sod along the edge of the hard surfaces surrounding the planting bed. Without stretching the sod, but the ends against each other and lay sod in a brick pattern. Use a plank or board to distribute your weight over the soil and sod as you work. Apply soil, sand or compost along the seams and the outside edges of the sod. This helps prevent the edges from drying out and shriveling or contracting.
- Roll over the newly laid sod with a half water filled lawn roller to establish good sod to soil contact.
- Place stakes and string around the perimeter to keep others from walking upon it. You may even need to post a sign to keep others from walking on the sod.
- Water the sod immediately and thoroughly. Continue to keep the sod evenly moist for the next 3-5 weeks. By the third week check the edges and some inner spots (break out the boards again) by gently pulling up on the sod to see if has rooted into its new environment. If it has water as you have been for one more week. At the end of the fourth week start watering only once a week. Apply about 1 1/2 inches of water to each area but double the amount where a tree is present. Remember to keep the soil under the tree as is. Adjusting the soil suddenly can shock the tree, even to the point of a slow death.
- Mow at the ideal height for your turfgrass type as frequent as is needed (as often as it grows one inch higher than what is ideal) and water as often as your grass needs it (for most it will be once or twice a week). Water should be applied all at once and deeply. Allow grass clippings to fertilize the lawn weekly by leaving them on the lawn. Clay, sandy, and sloped soils call for intermittent watering within the same day, that still amounts to at least 1 1/2 inch. Fertilize the lawn during the active growth season of your grass type. This will be fall or else spring for cool-season grass and late spring to summer for warm-season grass. Some grasses may not need it, like centipede grass. If you regularly mow, water and fertilize properly your lawn will flourish.
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