Mobile Home Water Line Repair

How to repair mobile home water lines. Make connections to standard plumbing fittings. Types of fittings to use.

This article will cover polybutyl mobile home water lines. How to repair them, and how to make a connection to convert it to standard plumbing fittings. Making it easier to install shut off valves, or add on.

Some water leaks are easy to spot. Some are noticed from seeing wet floor, or noticing mold starting to form. The first step is to locate the leak. If the leak is in a straight piece of line. Purchase a shark bite union, or pex flair-it union of the correct diameter. If your in doubt of the size cut out a small piece at the leak and take it with you. If it is at a fitting, cut out the fitting (cut as close to the fitting as possible) and take it with you to the hardware store.

Always clean the end of the line you cut, so it is free of rough edges and cutting debris. If your using the brass shark bite fitting (which I prefer) push the line into the fitting until you hear it click. If your using the pex flair-it fitting, slide the nut on first, push the flare part of the fitting inside the line. Push the nut up to the fitting and tighten. Do not over tighten, these plastic nuts can crack.

If your working on lines that are feeding a faucet, sink, tub, or shower. And there are no water shut off valves now is the time to install them. Most supply lines are half inch diameter. This means you need a half inch polybutyl to half inch M.I.P. (male iron pipe threads) fitting. These can be a shark bite are pex fitting. You will need a stop (shut off valve) half inch F.I.P (female iron pipe thread) by 3/8 inch compression. A braided faucet supply line for compression fitting. A toilet supply line if your working on a toilet. Be sure and get a long enough supply line.

½” pex or shark bite to ½” M.I.P.

Stop: ½”F.I.P. x 3/8” compression.

Faucet or toilet braided supply line x 3/8” compression x the length you need.

Note: If you’re using ¾ inch pex flair-it on polybutyl you will have to use a little sleeve that slides in the line after you have slid the nut on. Its called a polybutyl to pex adapter. This is the only size of polybutyl line that requires an adapter. If possible always use the brass shark bite fitting, it is easier to install, and a lot tougher.

On tubs and showers it is sometimes necessary to make an access. To get to the back of the faucet. Measure on the side with the faucet. Measure on the other side of that wall, and mark the center of the faucet and shower head neck (where the neck comes out of the wall). Make a six inch by six inch hole for the shower connection, and a 12 inch wide by eight inch tall hole for the faucet. Cut them clean and you can put those pieces back, and cover the edges with trim. I miter all my corners at 45 degree angles for looks. If the wall is sheetrock you can put the pieces back and use spackling or joint compound to fill the edges.

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Published in: Do-It-Yourself


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