How to Repair Holes in Drywall Like a Pro

Most small holes in walls are caused by nails and screws used to hang pictures.  Family homes also develop an array of small gouges, generally caused simply by every day activities and exuberant play. All of these, and much larger holes, can be repaired easily with two or three coats of a repair compound available from most hardware and home improvement stores. 

While various kinds of compounds are available, the preferred type is the one used by professionals who install drywall (also known by the names sheetrock, gypsum board and gyproc, among others) to fill screw holes and the gaps between sheets.  Drywall compound sets quickly and firmly, and sands easily to a smooth finish.

Small Damage

Gouges in walls should be cleaned around the edges to remove any loose plaster or pieces of drywall paper. A coating of compound should then be applied.  It will shrink as it dries.  Once thoroughly dry (see directions on the container), do a quick sanding. Apply another coat and sand again when dry.  Don’t skip a third coat if it appears necessary. 

For nail and screw holes, loose paper around the edges should also be removed.  Try using a fairly new Phillips screwdriver, inserted in the hole and gently turned back and forth.  This will widen the hole slightly, allowing more compound to go into the hole and to go deeper, making a stronger repair.  A countersink bit works even better but not every DIY’er has one in his or her toolbox.

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When applying compound to prepared nail and screw holes, first use a small amount on the tip of a finger and work it into the hole.  Next, apply compound with a putty knife or narrow trowel.  Let dry, sand and apply a second coat.  Two coats should be sufficient.  Never use toothpaste to repair nail holes.  Most toothpaste will not accept paint, resulting in unsightly blotches where paint has peeled off.

Large Repairs

Making repairs to large holes is not as onerous as it may seem.  The first step is to prepare the damaged area. 

First, if the drywall is cracked anywhere around the hole, cut it out with a drywall saw or other narrow-blade coarse-tooth handsaw. 

Next, use a coarse file or rasp to remove loose pieces of drywall paper and plaster around the edges of the hole, and then taper the edges slightly outward.  This will contribute to a smooth finish later. 

Most large holes will need a piece of drywall cut to fit the hole and then plastered in place.  The repair piece should have a support behind it.  Here’s how to do that: start by cutting a strip of wood or drywall just wide enough to fit through the hole.  It should be long enough to overlap the hole from behind by two or three inches on either side.

Before trying to maneuver the support piece into place, attach a string to it.  Do this by drilling two small holes in the middle of the support piece.  Thread the string through both holes, and then tie the ends to make a loop.  Use the loop to hold the support piece in place. It will also help prevent accidentally dropping the support piece down inside the wall.

Insert the support through the hole, and pull the support against the back of the wall with the loop of string.  Secure the support in place with drywall screws driven carefully through the wall and into the support piece.  The screws should be countersunk slightly below the surface of the wall.  These will be filled later. Once the support is secured in place, cut the string, pull it out and discard.

Repair Piece

Now, cut the repair piece and trim it to will fit the hole as closely as possible.  Make sure the repair piece of drywall is the same thickness as the drywall on the wall.  The most common thickness is 5/8–inch, but in some applications can be thinner or thicker.  Insert the repair piece in the hole and attach it to the support. 

Large repair pieces should be held in place with screws countersunk below the surface.  Small pieces up to four or five inches in diameter can be held in place with drywall compound.

Small scrap pieces of drywall for both of these purposes can be obtained free in the building materials sections of most home improvement stores.

Fill the gaps between the repair insert and the surrounding wall with drywall compound.  Sand the area when dry.  Then, apply the drywall compound over a fairly wide area, on and around the repair, using a wide trowel so that any unevenness is as gradual as possible.

The goal is to make the repair invisible. At least two coats of drywall compound will be needed, probably three and maybe even four.  Sand between each coat, using a medium grit sandpaper.  On the last coat use a medium then fine sandpaper, to achieve a smooth finish.

Extreme Repairs

For very large damaged areas, it may be necessary to replace a partial sheet of drywall.  To do this, cut horizontally across the damaged wall with a coarse saw between studs and remove the damaged drywall, exposing the edges of the studs on each side of the damage.  In the case of a repair requiring a half sheet or third of a sheet of drywall, in addition to exposing the studs of both sides, also expose the top or bottom plate to which the repair piece will also be attached.

The remaining drywall should be trimmed to make an edge as straight as possible.  Bevel this edge slightly to accept compound better. Cut and attach two or three one-foot strips of sheetrock or thin plywood, each at least four inches wide, to the back of the remaining sheetrock along the trimmed edge of the opening where the repair section will be installed.  These will support the repair section when it is installed and will accept drywall screws to hold that portion of the repair section in place.

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Measure the size of the repair and purchase a piece of drywall of a size corresponding to the needed repair.  Trim it to size and fit it in place, securing it with drywall screws.  Proceed with plastering by applying compound to the screw holes and the seams between the sheets of drywall first and letting it dry.  Another one or two coats will most likely be needed on the seams and screw holes, sanding lightly between coats when thoroughly dry.

Then a final coat or two of compound should be applied over a wide area, tapering back from the seams to make the thickness of the compound as gradual as possible. Use a wide trowel, up to 12 inches wide if possible.

Repaired areas should be primed with the same paint to be used for the job.  If a roller will be used for the whole paint job, use a roller to prime the repaired areas.  Don’t use a brush.  It will leave brush marks that will show through when paint is rolled on the area later.

Applying Filler

For most holes, gouges and scratches, plan on at least two applications of drywall compound. Deeper and larger repairs will likely require more coats. 

For best results, use a trowel to apply drywall compound.  A wider trowel is better.  Many use a putty knife for nail holes and for small nicks and scratches.  A trowel with a two-inch or three-inch blade produces a much smoother job for most repairs.  For larger repair jobs, use larger trowels – they come in sizes ranging up to 24 inches.  For most jobs, six, eight or 10-inch blades will be sufficient.

The dust from rough and final sanding can be reduced by carefully toweling the compound as smoothly as possible.  It will come with experience. Use a damp cloth or firm sponge to remove dust from sanding.

The damp cloth or sponge will also help prepare the repair for painting.  Wipe the repair very lightly.  Compound is water-soluble – a cloth or sponge that is too damp or wiping too heavily can remove too much compound, re-exposing the damage.